涌浪

There is a swell of height 8 meters from seaward.

从海面过来一个米高的涌浪。

The following are the major work in this thesis which has been studied and still needs to be studied further in the future: 1 An improved adjoint variational method is developed, thus it can be applied to the LAGFD-WAM Wave Numerical Model for data assimilation; 2 A linear evolution equation of spectral perturbation is derived in order to analyze its increasing or decreasing mechanism.

本论文主要完成了以下几个方面的研究： 1）建立了推广形式的共轭变分同化方法，使之能够应用于LAGFD-WAM海浪数值模式； 2）导出了扰动谱线性演化方程，分析了扰动谱增长、衰减机制，考察了涌浪情况下扰动谱的持续时效问题及风浪情况下扰动的演变过程； 3）利用波谱共轭方程初步分析了同化模型中距离泛函的敏感性及敏感区域空间分布； 4）将推广的共轭变分方法应用于海浪谱能量平衡方程，建立了连续形式的海浪同化模型，特别是严格导出了风输入、破碎、底摩擦、波波非线性相互作用和波流相互作用各源函数的共轭源函数表示式； 5）分别进行了波谱层次上和有效波高层次上的同化试验，并对数值结果进行了分析。

It is about the generating and propagating processes of the bore caused by the level and uniform velocity landslide.

本文主要研究水平匀速滑坡涌浪的生成与传播过程。

Pickup modeling transforms the sound of a single-coil pickup into that of a humbucking pickup, a guitar synth that lets you play synth sounds, an intelligent pitch shifter that automatically harmonizes with your playing, a talk effect that produces the impression that your guitar is speaking, a slow attack effect that creates violin-type swells, a feedback effect that allows feedback playing techniques that are normally possible only at high volumes, a rotary speaker that changes speed in response to your picking or fingering dynamics, a fretless bass effect that simulates the distinctive sound of a fretless bass, and many more are ready for your use.

皮卡造型变换声单线圈皮卡，变成了humbucking皮卡，一把吉他的合成，让你玩合成音效，智能型沥青移自动理顺与你玩，讲座的效果，从而产生一种印象，你的吉他是说，一个缓慢的攻击效果，创造小提琴型涌浪，反馈作用，使反馈的演奏技巧，通常只有在高卷，旋转扬声器，变化速度回复您或采摘指法动态fretless一个低音效果，模拟不同声音一fretless男低音而更多的人准备好供您使用。

Spanning 322km at its entrance, the Amazon is the widest river in the world. Some of its flat channels are perfect for the phenomenon known by local people as the big roar. In wave after wave, the pororoca — a rare instance of water flowing upstream — pours in, up to 257km an hour, in a wall of water that can reach 7m high.

河口宽达三百二十二公里，亚马逊是世上最宽的河流，部分平坦河道是当地人称为大呼啸的河口涌潮壮观景象，一波波河口涌浪以时速二十五点七公里涌上，形成七公尺高的水墙。

The person can stand on the top, with lend a swell to push dint in the aquatic skidding.

人可站在上面，凭借涌浪的推力在水上滑行。

In considering to the revivification of huanglashi slope groupes, the author ana- lyzed the stability of Shiliushubao slope after the three Gorges Dam is sluiced in due form for various processes of rainfall and different water level of Yangtse River.

由于黄腊石滑坡群的复活，在三峡大坝正式蓄水之后，结合不同的降雨过程和不同的长江水位分析了石榴树包滑坡的稳定性变化以及因滑坡而引起的涌浪对其上下游的重要城镇和建筑物的影响。

Surges are commonly responsible for about 90 per cent of all deaths from the ocean storms.

风暴灾害中约90%的死亡原因都是由涌浪造成的。

We now have swells at over 6m on our coast.

我们现在有超过6米的涌浪海岸。

Just beyond the breakers, the swells are quite large, and make swimming quite difficult.

就在碎浪的旁边，涌浪是相当大的，游泳会很费劲。

In the United States, chronic alcoholism and hepatitis C are the most common ones.

在美国，慢性酒精中毒，肝炎是最常见的。

If you have any questions, you can contact me anytime.

如果有任何问题，你可以随时联系我。