波浪

Schwartz (1974), a simplified method to calculate higher order waves is developed by using mapping transformation method and optimization algorithm in this paper.

该方法可以方便的用于海洋结构物在波浪作用下的运动与荷载计算，具有工程上可以接受的精度。当前，海洋结构物波浪荷载的计算，大多限于线性波理论及低阶的非线性波理论，有时是不能满足工程需要的。

In many research methods, the numerical model is one of most ways to solve the wave transformation.

在诸多研究方法中，波浪数学模型成为解决大范围波浪传播变形的主要手段之一。

Wind action should be primarily influenced on the open shore segment and aerial-marine shore segment, and it's sensitive for the response of the processes of the shadow shore segment to the tide action.

弧形海岸过程的动力机理通过对南湾海滩近岸的动力作用分析表明：1）波浪动力是影响华南弧形海岸过程的决定性因子，近岸海区的波浪场与海滩场具有明显的相关区，关键区主要位于海滩的中间岸段及其海区的近岸带和海湾上、下岬角连线的邻近区域。2）风应力及其潮汐是影响整个华南弧形海岸时空变化过程的重要动力因子，其中，风应力主要偏重于对海滩开敞岸段及其水上岸段的影响，遮蔽岸段的海滩过程对潮汐动力作用的响应较为敏感。3）台风大浪及其冬季冷空气南下导致的动力作用加强是海滩过程急遽变化的重要因子。

By field-testing methods, such as static cone penetration test, field vane shear test, and pore water piezometer test, the variation of strength and the pore water pressure are measured at real time, and the marine hydrodynamics' impaction on the consolidation process of the sediments in the Yellow River Estuary was studied. It is shown that the self-consolidated sediments have a very fast consolidation rate, under self-consolidation, in 72h, the consolidation degree reaches 37% and about 142h the pore water pressure disperse over, while under the hydrodynamics, in 72h the consolidation degree reaches 52% and about 195h the pore water pressure disperse over.

在黄河三角洲刁口叶瓣潮坪上，开挖2m×1m×1m的试坑，现场取土配置黄河口快速沉积形成的流体状堆积物，以铁板部分覆盖试坑隔绝波浪和潮流作用，利用微型贯入、静力触探、十字板剪切试验、孔隙水压力监测等原位测试手段，实时测定快速沉积的海床土强度发展以及孔隙水压力消散情况，研究快速沉积的粉质海床土分别在自重条件下以及在波浪和潮波等水动力作用下的固结过程。

The scattering wave velocity potential to the flexible circle pile was the solution of the Laplace equation, which satisfied the cylindrical surface non-homogeneous boundary condition.

采用动力Winkler弹性地基梁模型模拟桩土动力的相互作用，通过求解满足柱面非齐次边界条件的Laplace方程，直接构造波浪对柔性桩的散射速度势，考虑了流体和桩体的相互作用，由解析法给出了埋置圆桩在波浪荷载下的动力响应。

In most previous investigations for the seabed-pipeline interaction, the seabed has been taken as to be elastic and generally the influences of the non-linearity of progressive wave loading and stand wave loading have been overlooked.

目前大多数研究只是考虑了管线、海床在线性推进波作用下的响应，没有考虑波浪非线性对于管线及其周围海床响应的影响，也没有考虑立波波浪荷载作用下管线及其周围海床响应。

The interaction between waves and muddy bottoms, which dominate the dynamic processes in muddy coastal area are studied in this dissertation. Special contributions are made to a better understanding of the transformation of regular and irregular waves and the mass transport of mud.

在淤泥质海岸动力因素与淤泥质底床相互作用的过程中，波浪与泥床的相互作用占有主导地位，本文对波浪与淤泥质底床的相互作用进行了较深入的理论与实验研究，着重探讨了规则波、不规则波在泥床上的传播规律以及底泥在规则波、不规则波作用下的质量输送现象。

And then we demarcated the saltation time and starting time of this travelling wave respectively by the first kind of cubic B-spline wavelet and the second kind of cubic B-spline wavelet.

由于行波各频率分量在线路中的传播速度是不同的，而我们所检测到的行波浪涌并非行波的最高频率分量，所以必须选取与所检测到的行波浪涌相吻合的波速。

It is thought that the channel bay line evolution processes can be divided into four stages. The first stage is soon of the sea level stable when the bayhead mountines are eroded and developed abrasion geomorphy and the productive materials were transport into the bay deposition by the tidal current and wave current and were reworked into gravel dams. The second stage is characterized by the fluvial output sediments and eroded sediments mixed deposition in channel bay and developed marine accumulation plain and sand riges in the plain under the wave reworked. The third stage developed clay silt marine accumulation plain under the action of the channel current and the wave action is very limited. The fourth stage is marked by human being reclaim which result in the channel bay filled and evoluted into a strait arce coast.

文章认为，峡道海湾的充填经历了四个阶段，第一阶段以峡道海湾湾顶山体在波浪作用下产生的侵蚀物质充填为主，发育了海蚀崖、海蚀洞、海蚀穴等侵蚀地形和湾顶砂砾石堤等堆积地形交替的峡道湾顶地貌，第二阶段以河流输出物质和峡道湾岛屿、礁石侵蚀物质在潮流作用下向峡道湾输运，由潮流和波流共同沉积为特征，发育海积平原，部分粗颗粒泥沙在波浪的改造峡，发育平原沙堤，第三阶段以河流输出物质为主，在涨落潮流搬运下进入峡道和峡道湾沉积，在峡道湾中发育以淤泥质粉砂为主要物质的海积平原，第四阶段以人类围涂造田为标志，加速峡道湾的充填过程，使峡道海湾最终趋于夷平，形成顺直均衡的弧形海岸。

In the meantime, the peak value of structure resonance contributes little to the response. The distribution of vertical displacement and wave bending moment of transverse section, which is along the direction of the floating structure length, appears unsymmetrical character. According to the wave scatter diagram of BI sea area of northwest pacific, which is in fairly calm condition, the amplitude values of long term prediction of wave bending moment in midsection and deck bending stress are quite large.

根据西北太平洋B1海区波浪散布图计算的波浪弯矩和舯剖面甲板弯曲应力的长期预报值是相当高的，日本的箱式浮动机场的概念设计中，浮体结构设置在离岸很近的平静水域且外围设置了防波堤，这可能是出于改善超大型浮体结构的运动性能和为了满足结构强度要求。

Lugalbanda was a god and shepherd king of Uruk where he was worshipped for over a thousand years.

Lugalbanda 是神和被崇拜了一千年多 Uruk古埃及喜克索王朝国王。

I am coming just now,' and went on perfuming himself with Hunut, then he came and sat.

我来只是现在，'歼灭战perfuming自己与胡努特，那麼，他来到和SAT 。