波浪

In the analysis of the frequent spectrum and the reflection coefficients, based on Goda's two-points method which fit to the normal incident wave, a modified two-points method is derived that can be used to calculate the frequent spectrum and reflection coefficient of the oblique waves from which the frequent spectra of incident waves and reflected waves incoming in arbitrary angular, the bulk reflection coefficient and the frequent spectrum of reflection coefficient could be computed, also from which in theory the waves could be measured in two wave gauges which is disposed at any direction.

为了分析单向不规则波入射波的频率谱和反射系数，本文在Goda用于分析正向不规则波的两点法的基础上，提出了可用于斜向不规则波频谱分离及其反射系数计算的改进两点法，该方法可用于计算任意波浪入射角的入、反射波谱、总体反射系数和反射系数的频率谱，并且测量波浪过程的两浪高仪可在较广的方向范围内布置。

Are complete. Like the wave on a beachfront, there are always more to come.

就象海滨上的波浪，总有更多的波浪到来（这句不太好，不知如何翻译

The influence of wave surface boundary layer is very little so it could be ignored in computation.

波浪存在产生的表面和底部的边界层对于潮流的影响，与波浪水质点的运动有直接关系。

Froude number is another important factor. It affects not only the height of bow wave but also the location of waves.

Fr是又一个重要的因素，它不但影响波浪高度而且亦影响波浪的位置。

Froude number is another important factor. It affe cts not only the height of bow wave but also the location of waves.

Fr是又一个重要的因素，它不但影响波浪高度而且亦影响波浪的位置。

In this thesis, numerical simulation of wave interaction with submerged porous breakwater is conducted.

本文以波浪和可渗潜堤为研究对象，对波浪与可渗潜堤的相互作用进行了数值模拟。

Finally, experiments are conducted for wave interaction with submerged porous breakwater.

文中还结合波浪水槽试验，对波浪与可渗潜堤的相互作用进行了研究。

The distribution characteristics of wave force in front of the structure of circular caisson continuous wharf are expounded.

简述圆沉箱连续式码头结构前波浪力的分布特点，根据圆沉箱前波浪力与沉箱后土压力分布沿环向的不均匀性，总结了对圆沉箱顶部局部加强的 4种方法。

Water to deal with physical sedimentation and biological degradation,artificial waves,the natural cycle of things,with the rain water collection systems on land and water animals and plants chain,while the scientific transformation of the beach,clear water to create Sands coastline of the urban landscape.

"都会沙滩"是海岸线开发建设的重中之重，是长三角学最具有海派气焰派头的都会海岸景不雅围水面积达1.5平方千米海水处理采用物理沉淀、生物降解、人工造浪、自然循环外，辅以陆上的雨水收集系统和水中的动、植物链，同时科学改造沙滩，打造金沙碧水的都会景不雅岸线人工铺设的金色细沙与清澈的海水相映成趣，紧挨着着沙滩的是已经建成的景不雅长廊长廊的上面是白色波浪形状的顶棚，当黑夜两侧的灯全亮起来的时辰，整个长廊就如一条长长的翻滚着的珍珠带，波浪起伏煞是好看

At present, with the development of the science and technology, wind conditions can be deduced from various satellite climograph, this paper will adopt wave spectral numerical models to offer wave conditions with enough resolution and accuracy, taking into account that errors may occur during directly evaluating wave parameters from empirical formulas.

现今科技的发展使人们能从卫星气象图片计算出风场，为避免由经验公式从风场推算波高分布的误差，本文将利用波浪谱数学模型以提供具有足够分辨率和精确度的波浪场。

On the other hand, the more important thing is because the urban housing is a kind of heterogeneity products.

另一方面，更重要的是由于城市住房是一种异质性产品。

Climate histogram is the fall that collects place measure calm value, cent serves as cross axle for a few equal interval, the area that the frequency that the value appears according to place is accumulated and becomes will be determined inside each interval, discharge the graph that rise with post, also be called histogram.

气候直方图是将所收集的降水量测定值，分为几个相等的区间作为横轴，并将各区间内所测定值依所出现的次数累积而成的面积，用柱子排起来的图形，也叫做柱状图。