波浪

On the basis of regular wave transformation equation in a reference[1] incorporating comprehensively environmental current,nonlinear dispersion effect,rapidly varying topography effect,energy loss due to bottom friction,refraction and diffraction, the governing equations are derived for irregular multi-directional wave transformation incorporating multi factors according to the principle of superposition of linear wave and the wave directional spectrum theory.

1引言波浪在由外海向近岸的传播过程中，由于受到复杂地形、障碍物和水流等因素的影响，波浪传播将发生变形。文献[2]对描述波浪在近岸传播变形的各种数学模型方法做了较为全面的、系统的回顾和总结。

The governing equation is the mild-slope equation. Finite element method has advantage to treat complicated boundary. The second order radiation boundary condition is expanded to improve the wave model for large incident wave angles. The validity of the second order radiation condition is examined through varying arbitrary wave incident angles.

模式将以包含波浪绕射及反射之缓坡方程式建立数值模式，利用有限元素法易於处理不规则边界的优点，引用二阶近似辐射边界条件，扩展波场模式处理大角度波浪入射的能力，探讨在未碎波的情形下，二阶辐射边界条件对於任意角度波浪入射之适用情形。

By using the second order Stokes wave theory,the wave force is calculated and the method to deduce the formula of the second order Stokes wave force spectrum is explored.

本文基于二阶Stokes非线性波浪理论探讨了采用非线性波浪理论时随机波浪力谱的计算方法，并用一典型算例，对本文公式的计算结果与线性波理论的计算结果进行比较。

By using the second order Stokes wave theory, the wave force is calculated and the method to deduce the formula of the second order Stokes wave force spectrum is explored. A representative example is given and the results horn calculation are obtained in the form of curves for comparison.

本文基于二阶7Stokes非线性波浪理论探讨了采用非线性波浪理论时随机波浪力谱的计算方法，并用一典型算例，对本文公式的计算结果与线性波理论的计算结果进行比较。

The variation of horizontal and uplift forces acting on the unit length of breakwater with attack angle is presented, and the effects of multi-directionality, wave steepness, and relative wave height on wave forces are discussed.

通过试验结果分析，给出了作用在直立堤上的单位堤长波浪力随波向角的变化规律，讨论了波浪方向分布宽度、波陡及相对波高等因素对单位堤长波浪力的影响。

When the gas flux is constant, the ratio of reduced resistance is improved with the increase of the water stream velocity. However, the relationship between the gas flux and the ratio of reduced resistance is more complex. When the water stream velocity is constant, if the gas flux is small in contrast, the effectiveness of reduced resistance is not obvious. But when the gas flux increased, the jetted gas will form """"archform"""" which will augment the shape resistance. In this condition, resistance could not be reduced and could even be increased, if the gas flux continues to be increased. So that there needs setting a baffle called step, which introduces the jetted gas into the turbulence boundary layer. In this case, the shape resistance may be fairly great. Besides, the waterline of model has also some effect on the ratio of reduced resistance, which acts on the size of wave. If waterline is deep, the wave could not affect the deployment of microbubble layer, so there is almost no effect on ratio of reduced resistance. However, the wave would affect distributing of microbubble layer under the model so that the gas could leak out from the two sides of model and directly affect the ratio of reduce resistance if the waterline is very small. Whether installing the dashplate or not has also the great influence on the effectiveness the ratio of reduced resistance. From the results of experiment, conclusion is that adding dashplate will greatly improve the effectiveness of reduced resistance.

当喷气量一定时，水流速度增大，减阻率提高；喷气量与减阻率之间的关系比较复杂，速度一定时，如果喷气量较小，减阻效果就比较差，但当喷气量增大的话，喷射出的气体就会形成一个&拱度&，增加了船模的形状阻力，在这种情况下最好采取断阶喷气，把气体引入到湍流边界层中，在这种情况下，船模的形状阻力比较大；船模的吃水对减阻率也有一定的影响，主要表现在波浪大小上，如果吃水较深，波浪影响不到微气泡层的分布，对减阻率不会造成太大影响，如果吃水较浅，波浪就会影响到微气泡层在船模底部的覆盖情况，可能会有部分微气泡从船模两侧泄漏，这样就直接影响到了减阻效果；是否安装压浪板，对减阻率也有较大的影响，从试验结果可以看出，在船模尾部加设了压浪板时，减阻效果明显得到改善。

Was shown that the Wavelet Transform could be used to discuss the primary mechanism of the sharper crest during the shoaling process.

於小波转换分析浅化波浪时，发现波浪在浅化过程中并非是同一频率的成份波皆有发生非线性现象，只有某些特定的波浪有非线性作用。

In this study, a finite element method is used to develop a numerical model for the simulation of combined wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling and breaking in the nearshore zone.

中文摘要本计画拟利用有限元素方法，建立近岸波场模式，模拟波浪以大角度入射近岸地区时，波浪因地形、人工结构影响产生之折射、绕射、反射、浅化及碎波等波浪之变形。

The parabolic equation can treat large angle incident waves and includes the wave energy loss with Bretchneider—Reid formula which has been verified by lots of indoor and field data, Its numerical model can simulate wave shoaling、refraction、small angle diffraction and bottom friction, and can be aplied to study the wave filed from open sea to shore area.

在抛物型缓坡方程波浪数学模型的建立过程中，采用适用于较大角度传播的基本方程，同时这一模型引入建立在较多实验和实测资料基础上的Bretchnei-der—Reid公式，较好地考虑了底摩损耗问题。该模型可同时考虑波浪的浅水变形、折射和小角度绕射，适用于大范围波浪场的推算。

The shoaling wave height is related to wave steepness. Comparing with wave theories the shoaling coefficient of small amplitude wave theory_ which is not related to wave steepness, disagrees with experimental reset. The experimental result has the trend with Stokes third order shoaling theory, but Stokes wave theory overestimates the shoaling coefficient .

波浪之浅化波高与波浪尖锐度有关，微小振幅波理论中浅化波高与波浪尖锐度无关与实测值不符，实验结果在定性上与Stokes波三阶浅化理论有相同之趋势，但在定量上实验之浅化系数较小，理论值有高估的现象。

Lugalbanda was a god and shepherd king of Uruk where he was worshipped for over a thousand years.

Lugalbanda 是神和被崇拜了一千年多 Uruk古埃及喜克索王朝国王。

I am coming just now,' and went on perfuming himself with Hunut, then he came and sat.

我来只是现在，'歼灭战perfuming自己与胡努特，那麼，他来到和SAT 。