波浪

The construction of the models is based on such theories as Theoretical Mechanic,Advanced Mathematics,Space Analytic Geometry,the Theory of Ship and Sea-keeping Theory.

在比较、分析国内外有关船舶波浪稳性的研究成果的基础上，运用理论力学、流体力学、高等数学、空间解析几何的基本原理和船舶原理、船舶耐波性、船舶抗沉性、势流理论的专业理论知识，提出了计算船舶波浪稳性的数学模型，并针对客滚船在波浪中的稳性变化进行了定量的计算和分析。

The model is applied to numerically analyze the wave field and the coastwise current formed by the breaking of oblique incident wave in the Leadbetter Beach, Santa Barbara, California, USA. In the analysis the Crank-Nicolson scheme is adopted to solve the parabolic mild slope equation and the ADI finite difference scheme is applied to solve the model of wave induced coastwise current.

运用该近岸流方程，对美国Santa Barbara Leadbetter海岸波浪斜向入射所产生的波浪场及波浪破碎所形成的沿岸流进了数值模拟，其中抛物型缓坡模型采用Crank-Nicolson格式进行数值离散，近岸流方程采用ADI差分格式离散。

O the waves, the sky-devouring waves, glistening with light, dancing with life, the waves of eddying joy

啊，波浪，吞吐长天的波浪，你光芒闪烁，生命跳跃；翻腾着欢悦的漩涡，奔流不息的波浪！

O the waves, the sky-devouring waves, glistening with light, dancing with life, the waves of eddying joy, rushing for ever.

啊，波浪，吞吐长天的波浪，你光芒闪烁，生命跳跃；翻腾着欢悦的旋涡，奔流不息的波浪！

But in SD rats, cardiac muscle fibers were fractured seriouly , contracted to wavilness obviously, then muscle fibers fracture were contracted like entasia by the hypoxia time increased , injury intensify , all the changes refered SD rats compensatory mechanism can not be transferred in this hypoxia degree. 3. Exposed to 4% oxygen concentration, the cardiac muscle ultrastructure of Gansu zokors had serious injury after hypoxia 2h.

在4%氧浓度的低氧耐受实验中，甘肃鼢鼠在低氧2，4h后，心肌纤维收缩明显呈波浪状，低氧时间延长至6，8和10h后，心肌显微波浪状收缩由强逐渐变弱，并逐渐恢复至正常状态，说明鼢鼠心肌在6h以后对严重缺氧环境开始代偿性适应；SD大鼠2h组心肌纤维断裂严重，收缩加强成明显的波浪状，随着低氧时间得增加，4h组呈严重成挛状收缩，损伤加剧，提示SD大鼠在这一氧浓度下已经无法正常调动其代偿机制。3。

But learning just as incontestably that his will is subject to laws, he does not, and cannot, believe it.

只有每时每刻仔细观察那些波浪的运动，并且把波浪的运动跟船的运动加以比较，我们才会明白，波浪每时每刻的运动都是由于船的运动引起的，因为我们不觉得自己在运动，所以产生了错觉。

The main results can beexpressed as follows:(1)Based on πtheory, some affected factors about wave forces are given, and therelation between affected factors and wave forces is analysised by experimentalresults.(2) The distribution of wave press at representative time and reflection nature aregiven and their variety charactes are discussed by experimental results.(3)By comparing the wave forces of quarter-circular breakwater and semi-circularbreakwater under the same wave conditions,some approximately wave forcesexpressions of quarter-circular breakwater are given.(4)Based on VOF method to trace water free surface,solve numerical value ofRANS equation,and get the distributions of flow field and wave press ofquarter-circular breakwater at the same time during one period,the mechanism ofwave force is also discussed elementarily.(5) Based on the result that RANS equation of numerical simulation agree wellwith experimental results,a new approach to study hydraulic natures of quarter-circular breakwater is provided.

其主要结论如下：一、通过π定理，确定影响波浪力的无因次参变量，根据试验结果对其影响因素进行分析；二、基于模型试验，给出典型时刻圆弧面防波堤的同步波压分布和反射特性，讨论它们的变化特点；三、通过相同条件下圆弧面防波堤与半圆型防波堤两种堤型试验波浪力的比较，给出了圆弧面防波堤波浪力的近似方法；四、利用VOF法追踪自由水面，数值求解RANS方程，得到圆弧堤堤体周围的流场和压力场，初步分析了速度涡流与压力场的相互影响；五、对比数值分析与试验结果，探讨数值方法研究圆弧面防波堤水力特性的可行性，提供新的研究途径

And by applying the linear dispersion relation of wave, all the properties of wave refraction including wave rays, constant phase lines, phase function and crest lines etc., can be expressed in explicit functions. By introducing an orthogonal curvilinear coordinate along the wave ray and the constant phase line, and with an estimated scale factor, the refraction coefficients along any wave ray can then be determined. The present results are verified by ordinary wave ray theory and some previous numerical results.

就此特例情况在波浪的线性分散关係的应用下，前进波浪折射现象的整体特性，包括波向线、等位相线、位相函数与波峰线皆被导述出明確显然的函数表示；同时引入由沿著波向线与等位相线所构成的完全符合波浪折射几何通性的正交曲线座標，求出其尺度因子后，由能通量守衡原则定出沿著任一条波向线上的折射係数；並由之对往昔纯依两相邻的波向线间的几何类比所给定的折射係数给予导証之。

Through the analysis for experiment result, The form of probability distributions on the unit length of breakwater with attack angle is presented, and the effects of wave angle, multi-directionality, wave steepness, and relative wave height on wave parameters of probability distributions are analyzed. The rules of statistical distributions of oblique and multidirectional wave forces are presented.

通过试验结果分析，给出了作用在直立堤上的单位堤长波浪力的概率分布形式，讨论了波向角、波浪方向分布宽度、波陡及相对波高等因素对单位堤长波浪力概率分布参数的影响，给出了斜向和多向波作用于直立堤上单元堤长的总力统计分布规律。

But most people don't realize that if they are in front of the wave when it breaks, it will give them a good push and throw them around a bit, but will ultimately pass by them.

但是但多数人没有意识到，如果当波浪破浪的时候，他们在波浪的前面，波浪会给他们一个强力的推动，并且有一点抛起来的意思，但是最终波浪会过去。

Lugalbanda was a god and shepherd king of Uruk where he was worshipped for over a thousand years.

Lugalbanda 是神和被崇拜了一千年多 Uruk古埃及喜克索王朝国王。

I am coming just now,' and went on perfuming himself with Hunut, then he came and sat.

我来只是现在，'歼灭战perfuming自己与胡努特，那麼，他来到和SAT 。