波浪

By using regression curve from cross correlation analysis, wave data of Hsiao-Liu-Chiu can be transformed into the one in Mir-Tuor area. Central Weather Bureau established the wave observing station in Hsiao-Liu-Chiu about seventeen years ago.

结果显示弥陀地区之波浪与小琉球波浪间有良好的相关性，可以利用交叉相关分析所得之回归公式，将小琉球过去的波浪资料转换成弥陀之波浪。

The work in the second year's project had resulted in two primary successes. One is to analyze the field data of wave and wind collected from August 1993 to May 1994, acquire the short time characteristic and the cross correlation between wind and wave in Mir-Tuor area. The other is to consult with Central Weather Bureau to get the waves data observing in Hsiao-Liu-Chiu and Dong-Chi-Yu. Cross correlation analysis was applied to analyze the relationship of the waves between Mir-Tuor and Hsiao-Liu-Chiu area, and between Mir-Tuor and Dong-Chi-Yu area. It indicates good cross correlation of waves between Mir-Tuor and Hsiao-Liu-Chiu area.

本年度为五年期计画之第二年子计画，主要工作成果有二：一是搜集82年8月至83年5月现场波浪及风速资料进行分析，得到弥陀地区短期波浪特性，以及风、浪之相关性；二是协调气象局提供小琉球与东吉岛波浪测站之同步观测资料，并且分别与弥陀波浪资料进行交叉相关分析，探讨弥陀、小琉球，与弥陀、东吉岛波浪之相关性。

Second order incident boundary condition on fixed incident boundary is derived for numerical simulations, based on the cnoidal or sinusoidal motions of wave maker paddle, which shows that the prediction with second order incident boundary condition is more accurate than the prediction with first order incident boundary condition. 2 The analytical solution for higher-order Boussinesq equations is derived and its applicable range is discussed. 3 A 2-D fully non-linear numerical model using boundary element method is developed to obtain wave forces acting on rectangular obstacle. 4 The three-dimensional fully non-linear waves are studied in a numerical wave tank using finite element method.The studies on the coupled numerical model combined Boussinesq equations with Laplace equation are following.

非耦合非线性波浪计算模型：1 根据造波板做椭圆余弦运动或正弦运动速度，推导出数值模拟波浪水槽时固定入射边界上的二阶波浪入射边界条件，数值计算结果和实验结果的对比表明采用二阶入射边界条件对波面升高的预报比采用一阶入射边界条件对波面升高的预报更为精确；2 推导了波浪水槽造波板做正弦运动所产生波浪的高阶Boussinesq方程摄动展开解析解，讨论了该解析解的适用范围；3 对整个波浪水槽应用边界元方法数值模拟了波浪对物体的非线性作用；4 用有限元法求解三维Laplace方程模拟了三维完全非线性波浪水槽。

Finally, apply the model to the wave calculation of a project area in northern Jiangsu Province. The results indicate the favorable inosculation with theoretical and practical values. The distribution of wave field is reasonable and basically unanimous with the results of adopting other models on wave calculation, which has proved the correctness of this model in theory and the practicability on engineering.

最后将模型应用于苏北某地的工程区域的波浪计算，计算得到的波浪场分布合理，波浪要素数值上与采用其他波浪模型所得的结果基本一致，说明了本文所建立的模型和计算方法在理论上是正确的，在工程上实用。

The wave is the core problem of low Fr. current .In order to make diffluent piers with low ridge to be popularized and applied, the surface wave of low Fr. current is chosen as the research object .We measure the surface wave elements and the velocity distribution of various diffluent piers scheme by the experiment of physical model. We also analyze the average wave height, the the average value of the square of wave , unit width of the waves energy , the probability density distribution of wave height ,and the power chart character, so as to reveal the weakening wave mechanism of the diffluent piers .

低Fr水流的核心是波浪问题，为了低坎分流墩的推广应用，本研究以低Fr水流的表面波浪作为研究对象，通过物理模型试验，对各种分流墩方案消能工的下游水面波浪要素、流速分布进行测试，分析低坎分流墩下游波浪的平均波高、均方根、单宽波能、波高概率密度分布及功率谱特性变化规律，从而揭示了低坎分流墩的削波机理。

Wave statistic and spectrum, characteristics of flow field under shoaling irregular waves are investigated.

对斜坡床面上不规则波浪要素及其作用下底部的流动特性进行实验观测，对波高进行统计分析和谱分析，在实验数据范围内得出斜坡上不规则波浪要素与谱的关系表达式，同时对浅化作用下不规则波浪的流动特性进行统计分析和谱分析，得到了浅化作用对不规则波浪的波高及底部流动特性影响的规律。

The results are verified from deep to extremely shallow water conditions. The shoaling waves, standing waves, 3D disturbance waves, tidal waves and solitude waves are simulated and verified,and waves over an underwater bar,the diffraction near single breakwater, breakwater gap, offshore breakwater, Breakhoff experiment are taken into account in this model. Furthermore, the wave harbor resonance under special topography, and "Bragg" resonance are simulated. The wave refraction problem under current fields,the nonlinear wave refraction-diffraction under "Arthur" current field, and the wave propagation under slowly varying current field are studied. The favorable calibrations show the model's feasibility in dealing with the wave nonlinearity and simulation in both deep and shallow water.

论文对深水至极浅水非线性波进行了较全面的验证，计算模拟了波浪浅化、立波、三维干涉波、潮波、孤立波以及波浪越过潜堤、单突堤绕射、双突堤绕射、岛式堤、Berkhoff实验和多连通水域波浪传播等问题，还对特殊地形条件下波浪发生港湾共振、布拉格共振进行了仿真；论文研究了水流中波浪传播折射变形问题，Arthur流场上非线性折射-绕射、水位缓变的转向潮流中波浪传播等缓变水流中波浪问题，各类问题的较好解决验证和表明了本文模式与方法具有适用于深浅水的可计算性与非线性。

The main content included in the paper is as follows: The European identification methods of type of wave load is introduced and compared with the methods in Code of Hydrology for Sea Harbour. In order to reveal their difference, they are tested by the experiment data. The relation between phase and frequency are analysed through the Hilbert and wavelet transformations. And a new method of identifying the breaking wave load is set up based on the linear relation between wave height and wave press before the breakwaters. The probability distribution is tested by the statistic of experiment data. Based on the experiment data, the paper analysed the influence of reflection coefficient according to different factors, and its property is got. The work property of charmfered breakwater under breaking waves is analysed. Through the statisticof its wave press and wave force the distribution of press on the breakwater front face and its reducing effect to breaking wave force are proved.

本文基于此，通过实验研究，主要作了如下工作：介绍了欧洲波态划分方法，分析与我国方法的异同，通过实验进行了验证；通过 Hilbert 变换和小波变换对波浪破碎的相频特性进行了分析，通过建立波高与波压关系来判别破碎波浪力；对破波条件下波浪力的分布进行了统计研究，验证了其分布类型；利用实测资料，分析了不同因素对反射系数的影响，得出了不同周期、波浪要素、破碎率下反射系数体现的不同规律；分析了破碎波作用下削角堤的工作特性，通过对堤面所受的波压力和总力的统计分析，验证了压强分布规律及削角堤对波浪力的削减作用。

The dynamics model of missile sealifts system for navy ships connected parallely is established. The dynamics simulation analysis of system is studied. The dynamics characteristic of missile box on the condition of different sea states and place parameters of crane are analyzed. The theory and technology bases for the design of system of missile sealifts or navy ships connected parallely are presented. The controlled multibody system dynamics of the system of missile sealifts with wave compensation for navy ships connected parallely is presented. On the condition of stochastic momevement of depot ship and incept ship and under the action of sealifts and wave compensation, the dynamics of sealifts system is studied by using discrete time transfer matrix method of multibody system. The calculate method of electric machine impule is developed in the process of supplying missile and action of wave compensate. Based on the PLC control system, the control method, which control supply process by testing torque of guide strings is presented.

本文建立了舰艇并靠导弹补给动力学模，进行了舰艇并靠导弹补给及波浪补偿系统动力学仿真分析，获得了导弹箱在不同海况下和舰用起重机不同位置参数的运动规律，为舰艇并靠导弹补给系统设计提供了理论依据和技术基础；建立了舰艇并靠导弹补给及波浪补偿受控系统多体动力学，在补给舰和被补给舰随机运动下，在补给和波浪补偿系统作用下，应用多体系统离散时间传递矩阵法进行了补给系统动力学分析，得到了导弹补给过程中，波浪补偿时，导引电机和卷扬电机输入电机脉冲计算方法；建立了以PLC 控制系统为核心，用扭矩传感器测量导引带产生的扭矩来控制补给过程的控制方法；对系统振动问题进行了研究，提出了通过调整伺服电机参数减少系统振动的方法。

Wave is a very important problom in harbor engineeering.We must know the wave condition in the sea area before desingning the harbor structures,determining the overall arrangement and calculating the amount of deposit.

港口工程中，波浪是一个非常重要的问题，港工建筑物的设计、港口平面布局的确定、航道淤积量的计算等均需了解和掌握本海区的波浪情况，所以编制本系统的宗旨就是使由外海波浪要素推算到港区泊稳计算等一系列繁琐复杂的波浪推算工作都尽可能地通过计算机来实现，从而减轻工作强度、提高工作效率。

On the other hand, the more important thing is because the urban housing is a kind of heterogeneity products.

另一方面，更重要的是由于城市住房是一种异质性产品。

Climate histogram is the fall that collects place measure calm value, cent serves as cross axle for a few equal interval, the area that the frequency that the value appears according to place is accumulated and becomes will be determined inside each interval, discharge the graph that rise with post, also be called histogram.

气候直方图是将所收集的降水量测定值，分为几个相等的区间作为横轴，并将各区间内所测定值依所出现的次数累积而成的面积，用柱子排起来的图形，也叫做柱状图。