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By using regression curve from cross correlation analysis, wave data of Hsiao-Liu-Chiu can be transformed into the one in Mir-Tuor area. Central Weather Bureau established the wave observing station in Hsiao-Liu-Chiu about seventeen years ago.

结果显示弥陀地区之波浪与小琉球波浪间有良好的相关性,可以利用交叉相关分析所得之回归公式,将小琉球过去的波浪资料转换成弥陀之波浪。

It is obvious that the simulation of water currents and waves is not only interesting in the research of computer graphics but also very useful for the researches in hydraulics, hydromechanics, wave mechanics, and kymatology, etc.

对流水及波浪的模拟不仅在计算机图形学的研究上有重要的意义,而且在现代水力学、流体力学、波浪力学等研究以及影视特技制作中都有很大的实用价值和广阔的应用前景。

Based on the experimental results, the wave height of progressive wave decreases gradually with the increase of the distance of artificial reef.

量测结果显示,当波浪於潜礁上方碎波时,波高有明显的减衰现象并随著向下游传递距离增加波高减衰情况越显著。

He is distinguished by his soft, silky, gently waving coat of warm wheaten color and his particularly steady disposition.

他显著的特点就在于其柔软、丝状、稍有波浪的被毛,柔和的小麦色,以及他特有的温和气质。

When the gas flux is constant, the ratio of reduced resistance is improved with the increase of the water stream velocity. However, the relationship between the gas flux and the ratio of reduced resistance is more complex. When the water stream velocity is constant, if the gas flux is small in contrast, the effectiveness of reduced resistance is not obvious. But when the gas flux increased, the jetted gas will form """"archform"""" which will augment the shape resistance. In this condition, resistance could not be reduced and could even be increased, if the gas flux continues to be increased. So that there needs setting a baffle called step, which introduces the jetted gas into the turbulence boundary layer. In this case, the shape resistance may be fairly great. Besides, the waterline of model has also some effect on the ratio of reduced resistance, which acts on the size of wave. If waterline is deep, the wave could not affect the deployment of microbubble layer, so there is almost no effect on ratio of reduced resistance. However, the wave would affect distributing of microbubble layer under the model so that the gas could leak out from the two sides of model and directly affect the ratio of reduce resistance if the waterline is very small. Whether installing the dashplate or not has also the great influence on the effectiveness the ratio of reduced resistance. From the results of experiment, conclusion is that adding dashplate will greatly improve the effectiveness of reduced resistance.

当喷气量一定时,水流速度增大,减阻率提高;喷气量与减阻率之间的关系比较复杂,速度一定时,如果喷气量较小,减阻效果就比较差,但当喷气量增大的话,喷射出的气体就会形成一个&拱度&,增加了船模的形状阻力,在这种情况下最好采取断阶喷气,把气体引入到湍流边界层中,在这种情况下,船模的形状阻力比较大;船模的吃水对减阻率也有一定的影响,主要表现在波浪大小上,如果吃水较深,波浪影响不到微气泡层的分布,对减阻率不会造成太大影响,如果吃水较浅,波浪就会影响到微气泡层在船模底部的覆盖情况,可能会有部分微气泡从船模两侧泄漏,这样就直接影响到了减阻效果;是否安装压浪板,对减阻率也有较大的影响,从试验结果可以看出,在船模尾部加设了压浪板时,减阻效果明显得到改善。

They were composed of wavy and tendinous collagen fiber fascicles, among which a small amount of loose tissue was found to be intermingled with vessels.

桡舟韧带、桡舟头韧带和桡月韧带的组织结构相似,由肌腱样的胶原纤维束组成,胶原纤维束之间有少量的疏松组织,其间有血管分布,胶原纤维束呈小的波浪状。

First the relationship of shoaling coefficient and relative water depth in regular and irregular wave fields has been analyzed. The experimental result shows that shoaling wave height decreases at first then increases until wave breaking. The broken wave height of regular waves is smaller than irregular waves with same wave steepness and relative water depth.

本文首先就规则波及不规则波实验分析波浪的浅化系数与相对水深之关系,实验结果显示浅化波高有先减后增之趋势,在碎波前达到最大,碎波后之波高在相同水深与深海波浪尖锐度成反比,规则波碎波后波高较不规则波小。

The shoaling wave height is related to wave steepness. Comparing with wave theories the shoaling coefficient of small amplitude wave theory_ which is not related to wave steepness, disagrees with experimental reset. The experimental result has the trend with Stokes third order shoaling theory, but Stokes wave theory overestimates the shoaling coefficient .

波浪之浅化波高与波浪尖锐度有关,微小振幅波理论中浅化波高与波浪尖锐度无关与实测值不符,实验结果在定性上与Stokes波三阶浅化理论有相同之趋势,但在定量上实验之浅化系数较小,理论值有高估的现象。

The results show that, the chloride concentrations and diffusion coefficients are both a one-humped function of elevations (can also be the time scale of seawater infiltration), they increase with the increase of elevation until they get to the peak value, and then decrease with the increase of elevation; an evident relationship is being between the surface chloride concentrations and the wave forces acted on the concrete surface, while there is no much difference among the diffusion coefficients; the diffusion coefficients get to bigger as the depth from the concrete surface increase in the influence of the capillary structures evolution and chloride concentration, but this tendency of change was alleviated with the increase of depth.

研究结果表明:氯离子侵蚀混凝土设施的竖向分布规律为氯离子浓度、扩散系数与标高之间同为单峰函数分布,先随高程变大而变大,达到峰值后,随高程变大而减小;氯离子侵蚀混凝土设施的环向分布规律为混凝土构件表面氯离子浓度、氯离子通量与波浪力之间有明显的对应关系,波浪力越大,则表面氯离子浓度和氯离子通量越高,而扩散系数在各方位角差别不明显;由于混凝土长期服役过程中内部毛细孔隙结构演化以及氯离子浓度的影响,氯离子扩散系数随混凝土深度变大而变大,但这种变化趋势随深度逐渐趋缓。

But most people don't realize that if they are in front of the wave when it breaks, it will give them a good push and throw them around a bit, but will ultimately pass by them.

但是但多数人没有意识到,如果当波浪破浪的时候,他们在波浪的前面,波浪会给他们一个强力的推动,并且有一点抛起来的意思,但是最终波浪会过去。

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