查询词典 shoaling

In this study, a finite element method is used to develop a numerical model for the simulation of combined wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling and breaking in the nearshore zone.

中文摘要本计画拟利用有限元素方法，建立近岸波场模式，模拟波浪以大角度入射近岸地区时，波浪因地形、人工结构影响产生之折射、绕射、反射、浅化及碎波等波浪之变形。

In comparison with the drawbacks related to the Fourier Transform and Smoothed Instantaneous Wave Energy History(SIWEH, the Wavelet Transform will be show to be much better suited for analyzing wave shoaling In which signal is believed to be non-stationary and wide band.

在使用小波转换作为分析波浪工具之前，我们选择 Morlet wavelet、Paul wavelet与Gaussian三种型态之小波函数进行讨论，最终考虑视窗面积之大小、复数型态之小波函数及频率视窗的集中度，而以 Morlet wavelet较适合分析波浪。

An alternative method to derive a set of fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations up to the order of $O(\mu^{2}$,$\varepsilon^3 \mu^{2})$ is presented. The linear dispersion relation and the shoaling gradient of the equations are improved by adding some dispersive terms.

从欧拉方程出发，提供了另一种推导完全非线性Boussinesq方程的方法，并对方程的线性色散关系和线性变浅率进行了改进。

The parabolic equation can treat large angle incident waves and includes the wave energy loss with Bretchneider—Reid formula which has been verified by lots of indoor and field data, Its numerical model can simulate wave shoaling、refraction、small angle diffraction and bottom friction, and can be aplied to study the wave filed from open sea to shore area.

在抛物型缓坡方程波浪数学模型的建立过程中，采用适用于较大角度传播的基本方程，同时这一模型引入建立在较多实验和实测资料基础上的Bretchnei-der—Reid公式，较好地考虑了底摩损耗问题。该模型可同时考虑波浪的浅水变形、折射和小角度绕射，适用于大范围波浪场的推算。

In addition, this paper also considers the nonlinear shoaling correction coefficient proposed by Tsai et al.(2001). The research compares first the wave deformation of sandy seabed and impermeable seabed.

2001所提出的非线性浅化能量因子；该缓坡方程式，包含孔隙弹性介质中孔隙率、土壤剪力模数及土壤渗透率等参数之特性，但亦可蜕化为刚性不透水底床之情况。

The Fourier approximation method is applied to solving wave height and wavelength problems of waves shoaling、for providing a normalization concept. We normalize the waves scope of depth and deep water to breaking depth into the range of 2~1. Finally、we check the experience formula computations.

中文摘要本文利用富立叶近似法解析波浪浅化过程中波高及波长的变化，并提出正规化水深之概念，将波浪存在之水深范围，深水至碎波水深正规化为2~1后，进行经验公式的推求。

The work song of boatman in Xiajiang of the structure characteristic is the structure of the suite of song of a kind of divertimento, the work songs of several kinds of different music personalities are connected together, so as to meet every need of period in the course of navigating , sing " tow the work song " if having water, sing " risk one's life work song " at passing dangerous shoaling , is it is it " shake the scull work song " to " push away the oar work song " to sing when entering the water, sing " pulling the stern work song ",etc.

峡江船工号子是一种套曲组歌结构，几种不同音乐性格的号子连在一起，以适应在行船过程中每一时段的需要，如上水时唱&拉纤号子&，过险滩时唱&拼命号子&，下水时唱&推桡号子&&摇橹号子&等。

After introducing the Boussinesq terms, which makes Boussinesq equation applied in the middle water depth and mild slope, and the wave energy loss term, the numerical modal of Boussinesq equation can accurately simulate irregular wave shoaling、refraction—diffraction and reflect in deep and shallower water.

在Boussinesq方程波浪数学模型的建立过程中，采用适用于中等水深（h／〓≤0.5）和缓变地形的Boussinesq项的修正形式，同时在基本方程中增加了波能损耗项，使该模型能够较精确地模拟波浪的浅水变形、折射、绕射、反射及其综合影响。

In shoaling process, the main peak frequency of broken wave spectra moves to lower frequency. With decreasing relative water depth, both the ratios of wave spectral energy at twice and triple peak frequency to main peak frequency increase. and when the value of the nonlinear parameter increases, both the ratios increase, too. The Stokes third order wave theory has the same tend but overestimates the value quantitatively.

波浪浅化时，碎波后主频频率有往低频移动之现象，且波浪进入浅水区，相对水深减小，非线性参数Ursell number越大时，二倍主频及三倍主频与一倍主频能量比值均有增加之现象，与 Stokes三阶理论有相同之趋势，但实验之比值在定量上小於Stokes三阶理论值。

The results are verified from deep to extremely shallow water conditions. The shoaling waves, standing waves, 3D disturbance waves, tidal waves and solitude waves are simulated and verified,and waves over an underwater bar,the diffraction near single breakwater, breakwater gap, offshore breakwater, Breakhoff experiment are taken into account in this model. Furthermore, the wave harbor resonance under special topography, and "Bragg" resonance are simulated. The wave refraction problem under current fields,the nonlinear wave refraction-diffraction under "Arthur" current field, and the wave propagation under slowly varying current field are studied. The favorable calibrations show the model's feasibility in dealing with the wave nonlinearity and simulation in both deep and shallow water.

论文对深水至极浅水非线性波进行了较全面的验证，计算模拟了波浪浅化、立波、三维干涉波、潮波、孤立波以及波浪越过潜堤、单突堤绕射、双突堤绕射、岛式堤、Berkhoff实验和多连通水域波浪传播等问题，还对特殊地形条件下波浪发生港湾共振、布拉格共振进行了仿真；论文研究了水流中波浪传播折射变形问题，Arthur流场上非线性折射-绕射、水位缓变的转向潮流中波浪传播等缓变水流中波浪问题，各类问题的较好解决验证和表明了本文模式与方法具有适用于深浅水的可计算性与非线性。

Neither the killing of Mr Zarqawi nor any breakthrough on the political front will stop the insurgency and the fratricidal murders in their tracks.

在对危险的南部地区访问时，他斥责什叶派民兵领导人对中央集权的挑衅行为。

In fact,I've got him on the satellite mobile right now.

实际上 我们已接通卫星可视电话了